Rice Bowl made with sweet brown rice, bok choy rabe, kumquat kosho, carrots with dulse and green garlic, celeriac, kasu, red onion, umeboshi, leek, koji, daikon, Meyer lemon kosho, jalapeño & caroselli kasuzuke, leek greens with date & chile paste brine, and beet & preserved lemon gomashio
Right: Carrot Amazake Pudding with hoshigaki
Beet, Celeriac, & Meyer Lemon dashi
After hearing about it from foodie friends for months, I finally visited The Cultured Pickle Shop, a casual restaurant specializing in fermented food on Bancroft and Fifth in West Berkeley. Apparently a not-so-hidden gem, it's located in the industrial part of Berkeley—close to Vik's Chaat and the shopping area on Fourth Street.
When I stopped by on a lovely Saturday just before noon in late March, I sat at a bistro set out front. They also have a tall table with high stools inside, where you can eat as you watch one of the owners at work. The interior that blends production, kitchen, and dining areas reminds me of the set-up we had in our multipurpose art classrooms in high school or the industrial-sized kitchen in my college housing co-op.
As a novice, I was greeted by one of their owners, Alex Hozven, who graciously walked me through the menu and what to expect. They serve a three-tiered vegetarian menu that comes with a cup of homemade dashi, a rice & pickle bowl, and a dessert. My dashi was made with beet, celeriac, and Meyer lemon and it was quite good. It was the perfect introduction to a meal of dynamic, fermented food to come.
My rice bowl came with so many things—many of which I'd never tried or heard of—including sweet brown rice, bok choy rabe, kumquat kosho, carrots with dulse and green garlic, celeriac, kasu, red onion, umeboshi, leek, koji, daikon, Meyer lemon kosho, jalapeño & caroselli kasuzuke, leek greens with date & chile paste brine, and beet & preserved lemon gomashio. I knew from the first bite of the umeboshi (Japanese pickled plum) that the rave reviews I'd been hearing were spot-on. There was so much flavor and dimension in one bite that it required me to really focus on the beautifully made food before me. The rest of the bowl was equally as delightful, innovative, and awe-inspiring. I particularly liked the leek leaf, which had a nice crunch like a chip, and I didn't even know was edible before my visit. All of the tangy, fermented flavors layered together nicely over the rice and it's clear that they're experts in the craft.
The meal ended on a sweet note with the Carrot Amazake Pudding with hoshigaki. I never thought of carrot pudding as a concept and I never knew it could be so creamy and good. Needless to say, I ate every bite of my meal.
Considering the incredible meal and hospitality, I will definitely stop by again soon. Next time, I may add a cured egg or avocado to my rice & pickle bowl or even take home a jar of pickled veggies. If you've visited The Cultured Pickle Shop, what do you recommend trying?
The Cultured Pickle Shop
800 Bancroft Way, Ste. 105, Berkeley, CA 94710
Open: Monday - Friday 9am - 6pm, Saturday 10am - 5pm, Sunday 10am - 3pm
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